Despite my family’s more or less unintentional suppression of my and my siblings’ half-Jewishness, the dozen years I lived in northern New Jersey, prior to moving to Bristol, had provided me with a few occasions to eat at an authentic Jewish delicatessen. Specifically, these were the few, very rare, excursions I recall taking in the neighborhood surrounding my Jewish, maternal grandmother’s apartment in Elizabeth, New Jersey. Even the scarcity of those memories, however, did not prepare me for the dislocation and outright confusion I experienced when I began my first week of work at John’s Deli. Yes, there were bagels (frozen Lenders, six to a plastic bag) and cream cheese, but where was the lox? The matzoh ball soup? The challah (to appear decades later in a major, northern Virginia grocery chain, labeled, much to my very Jewish, then-husband’s horror, “egg bread”)? The Entenmann’s pastries, if not real cheesecake? Yes, there was cheesecake, but it was a far cry from its authentic cousin that was readily available at any diner—Jewish or not—in those now halcyon Jersey days. Inarguably, it was an exile to the culinary desert for any unlikely Jew who might stumble through the doors of John’s Deli. To add insult to injury, my sense of place was further skewed by the lines of New Testament scripture which were painted like a decorative border on the walls below the ceiling line on all four sides of the dining room.
I worked hard at that
deli, though, hard enough to know that restaurant work, in particular food prep
in the kitchen, was back breaking and relentlessly boring. Moreover, I was not very good at it. I could not chop fast, or uniformly, enough. I was squeamish about touching meat (my
conversion to vegetarianism was not too many years away). I was revolted by handling strangers’ dirty
dishes and utensils. Still, I did learn
how to bake the perfect baked potato (scrub the potato; prick it in a few
places; and then bake it in a very hot oven, unwrapped—no foil (this was key)—for at least an hour). And while John’s would not be my last
restaurant job, it was the first one to direct my thoughts to considering the
type of work to which I might be better suited. So it was that, even at the age of 14, I
began to envision a more white-collar profession in my future. That this was a challenging prospect for a
young woman who would be the first in her family to even attend college, not to
mention step into a professional career, had not yet occurred to me. Maybe that scripture, incongruously New Testament as it was, which
was writ large on the four walls surrounding me as I worked, had some blessings
to confer after all.